Time-tested appeal drives luxury watches

Heritage has proven to be a powerful commercial draw among luxury consumers.

In economic terms, it can become a profound currency to own, or better still, a unique differentiator dictating the strength of a product’s appeal to luxury tastemakers.

That same appeal stems from a degree of rarity, beauty or the renowned craftsmanship of the maker – qualities synonymous with the luxury watch market.

Rado chief executive officer Adrian Bosshard tells StarBiz 7:

“Heritage-inspired designs bring together the best of both worlds: the character of an iconic watch and the comfort, materials and technical performance expected by today’s consumers.”

Take, for instance, the rise of neo-vintage luxury watches – timepieces dating from the late 1980s through to the early 2000s, a nod to a bygone era, adding depth and character to their design and complications.

A report by Market.us noted neo-vintage watches grew 123% in sales since 2023, becoming the fastest-growing secondary-market segment while reshaping the luxury watch market.

In response to strong sales growth, Bosshard says consumers tend to seek authenticity and a connection to a watch’s history, alongside a timepiece that feels modern and relevant to their lifestyle.

For him, the lesson is to preserve the watch’s DNA and design codes that made the original iconic, while reinterpreting them for a new generation through contemporary design, innovative materials and the latest technologies.

That said, honouring a luxury watch’s place in history ultimately comes down to the very thing it was designed to measure: time itself. And there is an inherent paradox in this.

Engineering a timepiece capable of standing the test of time is one thing; ensuring it continues to feel relevant to each new generation of consumers is another.

Time, perhaps in this case, is a product’s toughest critic, particularly as the market gravitates towards selectivity.

According to a report by Strategic Gears Management Consultancy, the global output of Swiss watch manufacturers dropped from 29.7 million units in 2000 to 14.6 million in 2025.

At the same time, the report showed exports revenue rose from 9.3 billion Swiss franc to 24.4 billion Swiss franc, nearly tripling in the past 25 years.

This implied that the global luxury watch market decisively moved from mass production toward a model prioritising high value.

Franck Muller Geneve chief executive officer Nicholas Rudaz believes the market is becoming more selective rather than weaker.

He adds that the market is normalising following the post-pandemic period, noting a healthier balance between supply and demand.

“We have always believed in controlled production rather than volume for its own sake.

“Our brand’s philosophy has never been to flood the market,” he highlights.

From the consumer perspective, Rudaz notes that collectors tend to seek out authenticity, innovation and genuine craftsmanship.

“Brands that remain true to these values will continue to perform well.”

In turn, Bosshard points to a key lesson in navigating market shifts: prioritising long-term thinking and sustainable growth while staying close to consumer expectations.

That said, how the luxury watch industry performs post-normalisation will depend on how deliberately brands scale their reach among emerging consumer demographics.

Both luxury watch brand leaders indicate that younger consumers behave differently from previous generations.

Rudaz says their journey often involves exploring digital content, social media and collector communities, long before they step into a boutique.

“They compare models, watch videos, read reviews, follow collectors and become highly informed before making their decision.”

In addition, Bosshard notes that aligning brand values with consumer demographics is key to meeting these expectations.

“This is where we feel particularly relevant.

“Since the beginning, we have challenged conventions through innovative materials and distinctive design; following our own path.

“I believe younger consumers connect strongly with that independent and pioneering spirit.”

This is becoming especially pertinent in Malaysia, a valuable frontier for collectors.

“We are convinced there is significant potential to continue growing our presence and inspiring a new generation of watch enthusiasts in Malaysia.

“They are informed, curious and looking for products that reflect their personality rather than simply following trends,” Bosshard points out.

As collectors become more globally exposed and expectations rise, there are no cheat codes for watchmakers.

The boutique is no longer competing solely with the brand next door, but with what they have seen around the world.

Bosshard notes that retail partners therefore play a strong key role as a direct line to consumers for the brand, especially to understand local market dynamics and consumer preferences.

In retrospect, Rudaz highlights that attracting Malaysian collectors requires more than a standard collection, as many already know which models interest them.

“Brands need to bring exceptional novelties, limited editions and memorable experiences that justify visiting the boutique,” he says.

With Malaysia positioned as a regional luxury hub, the country has the potential to play a much bigger role in the high-end watch ecosystem.

“A large spectrum of brands are already present in Malaysia,” Rudaz says.

“So, the next step would be to become a regional destination for major watchmaking events,” Rudaz adds.

He notes that cities like Singapore and Bangkok are already strengthening their position within the global watch community, through dedicated exhibitions and collector gatherings.

“Malaysia has every opportunity to develop similar initiatives,” Rudaz says.

Larger-scale events would encourage brands to unveil exclusive launches, alongside technical workshops, collector forums and master watchmaker presentations.

“This not only benefits the brands but also helps educate new enthusiasts, while solidifying the country’s reputation as a serious destination for haute horlogerie,” Rudaz notes.